Salve, nu är den tiden på året som man kan frossa i Panettone, för er som inte har koll
på denna fantastiska kaka, kommer här en bild och lite av storyn bakom den.
//Stefano

Il Panettone
From time immemorial, panettone, with its hallmark domed shape, has graced
Christmas tables in Milan, pretty much as we find it today, since at least the
fifteenth century.
The historian Ludovico Antonio Muratori, who lived from 1672 to 1750, attributed the
origins of this cake to a much earlier period, contending that it probably developed
out of an old pagan custom documented in Lombardy as far back as the early eleventh
century.
Once the Christmas dinner had been served, the head of the family would pour a little
wine from his own glass over the burning Yule log, along with a small bundle of
juniper branches and berries. He would then break the big cake, but not before
carving a cross onto its surface. A piece of the cake was then distributed to every
member of the family. A small portion of this cake was then put away until the
following Christmas. Specially prepared for the occasion with great care, the
Christmas cake also served as a token of family bonds.
Over the years it became the custom to prepare the Christmas cake exclusively
with white wheat flour, an ingredient that underscored its importance.
The Christmas cake thus came to be referred to as pan del ton (or luxurious cake),
which evolved into the current panettone.
THE DUKE AND THE BAKER
The ancient customs associated with panettone have spawned a rich body of
legends, including the one according to which the name, panettone, came from
pane di Toni (the bread of Toni), i.e. from the name of a kitchen boy who allegedly
invented it while serving at the court of Duke Ludovico il Moro. This charming
legend has it that during the course of a big Christmas banquette held by the Duke,
the court cook burned the planned dessert. The day was saved, however, by the
enterprising kitchen boy, Toni, who had prepared a sweet loaf of bread with butter,
candied fruit and leftover dough. This improvised cake was such a hit with his
guests that the Duke asked what it was called and when Toni replied that he hadn’t
yet thought of a name, the Duke proclaimed that henceforth it would be called
pan del Toni.
According to a different version of the story, the Toni character – although still
serving at the court of the powerful Ludovico Sforza, known as ”il Moro” – was a
baker and the proud father of the beautiful Adalgisa, with whom a knight, Ughetto
degli Antellari, had fallen madly in love. In order to win the heart of his beloved,
Ughetto pretended to be a baker’s apprentice and, once he had wheedled his way into
Toni’s kitchen, he prepared a special dessert that he presented to the fair Adalgisa.
His unconventionally gallant efforts were crowned with success and the resourceful
Ughetto was duly rewarded with the fair damsel’s hand in marriage, a union that
received the enthusiastic endorsement and blessings of no less personages than
Ludovico il Moro and his wife, Beatrice.
SISTER UGHETTA
Of all the legends that have sprung up to explain the origins of panettone,
one of the most intriguing and fairy-tale like is the delightful tale that attributes
the invention of this delicious cake to the youthful Ughetta, a nun living in a very
poor convent. In order to celebrate Christmas together with the other sisters,
Ughetta enhanced the usual bread dough with a little sugar, butter, candied fruit and
raisins (in Milanese dialect the word for raisin happens to be ughetta), carefully
making the sign of the cross with a knife on the top of the cake, by way of blessing it.
Whatever its origins may have been, by the fifteenth century panettone was beginning
to be an increasingly common feature of the Christmas table, first in Lombardy and
then, gradually, throughout the rest of Italy, eventually becoming the Christmas
dessert par excellence.
Panettone is even featured in that famous work describing the art of cooking written
in 1570 by Bartolomeo Scappi, the personal cook to Pope Pius V. Panettone’s
inexorable assent in terms of prestige and national popularity continued in the
eighteenth century, when Pietro Verri, a staunch advocate of the Enlightenment
movement, sang its praises with scientific enthusiasm. In 1839, the Milanese Italian
Dictionary by Cherubini listed it as Panatton or Panatton de Natal: ”A kind of wheat
bread enhanced with butter, egg, sugar and dried grapes (ughett) or sultanas and
almonds, which are added when it is a dough. When baked it is distinguished by a
crust boasting a spiked surface. Being large and weighing one pound or more, it is
generally only made for Christmas. A similar dough, however, is prepared and baked in
small loafs by bakers throughout the year and this is called Panattonin…”
In 1847, Paolo Biffi prepared a panettone of record dimensions for Pope Pius IX;
it was so big it had to be delivered in a special coach. By the twentieth century Italy
had begun exporting its beloved panettone, marking the beginning of a remarkable
success story that is still continuing to this very day. It was also in the twentieth
century that panettone assumed the characteristic tall shape by which we know it
today, thanks to the ingenuity of Angelo Motta, who was the first person to put a
tall cylinder of thin paper in the baking tin, forcing the dough to expand vertically
rather than spilling over the side. And this brings us up to the present day.
In order to safeguard tradition and ensure that panettone is made in the time-honored,
non-industrial manner, efforts are currently underway to establish guidelines in
terms of ingredients and procedures that will serve as the basis for obtaining a
special DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) panettone certification from the
European Union: one more recognition for a speciality whose name has always been
intimately associated with the celebration of Christmas.
A LONG PREPARATION PROCESS
Long and complicated, the traditional preparation process involved in making
true panettone is still lovingly practiced in many, non-industrial kitchens like a
sacred ritual. The first step is the preparation of the mother, the natural leavening
made with a mixture of yeast, water and flour that is left uncovered in the kitchen
for a long period of time, up to 36 hours.
In order to ensure the right consistency and tenderness of the finished cake, it is
crucial that the mother comes out perfectly and the long process in which the mother
acquires its characteristics must be carefully overseen by the pastry chef. While it
is aging the mother is topped off about every four hours, i.e. additional water and
flour are added to reinforce the strength of the leavening agent. Next, the ingredients
of the initial dough are added: flour, egg, sugar, top-quality butter and water.
The resulting dough is left to rise again, and then the candied fruit and raisins are
added.
At this point the pan del ton is placed into baking tins and a cross is cut into the
top of each one. The baking is done in huge ovens that have been specially designed
for this purpose. The panettone is allowed to cool for fully 12 hours and then left
to rest for another 10 hours before it is considered ready to be eaten.
The traditional recipe for panettone calls for using nothing but white wheat flour,
sugar, top-quality butter, eggs and sultana raisins; the version from the northwestern
region of Piedmont also includes tender, round hazelnuts from the Langhe area,
which are used for the icing.